3720 Spruce St,

Philadelphia, PA 19104

Mon-Sat 7:00am-7:00pm

Sunday 10:00am-6:00pm

Mon-Sat 7:00am-7:00pm

Sunday 10:00am-6:00pm

3720 Spruce St,

Philadelphia, PA 19104

Toilet Repair

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Local Plumber - Toilet Repairs & Service

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Toilet Repair Plumbers in All Philadelphia County, Pennsylvania

When things go wrong with your home toilet, it could be one of the most typical– and troubling– plumbing problems you could encounter in your home. Whether your toilet is overflowing or running continuously, toilet repairs are issues you can not put aside.

 

It would be best if you always try and keep toilets in good working order as they are among the most significant fixtures in a plumbing system. We don’t offer them much thought until something goes wrong and they stop working.

 

The feared clogged-up toilet is one of homeowners’ most typical residential challenges. Many will try to fix toilet issues, only to find that the fix did not work or that the problem reappeared.

 

When your toilet requires more than a plunger service, it’s best to call a plumber near me for all toilet repair or installation needs. With years of experience, our professional team can take care of the project quickly and efficiently.

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Most Common Problems with Toilets in Homes

Plenty of toilet repairs are best left for the pros to deal with. Nonetheless, not every situation needs emergency plumbing services.

Let us to go through a few of the standard toilet issues dealt with by customers that have contacted us for suggestions on how to deal with toilet issues:

Moaning sounds from toilets

If you hear groaning noises from a toilet, it could be due to an increase in water pressure, which lets a water valve to shudder or shake.

Random or constant flushing

Either of these 2 issues will possibly trigger toilets to flush and begin filling up on their own:

 

  • ( 1) the refill tube is too long, or
  • ( 2) it could also be a leaking flapper

 

This flushing at random leads to water damage and waste, resulting in a higher monthly water service bill.

Compound flushing

Perhaps you only flush once; however, the toilet flushes twice or even three times. A high water level is usually the source of this issue. Changing the float control within the tank will typically fix this.

Water dripping into the bowl, or “Phantom Flushes”

A sluggish leak from the tank into the bowl is the source of the problem here. A malfunctioning flapper or flapper seat is undoubtedly to blame.

 

Replacing a worn or damaged flapper is the best solution to avoid plumbing issues. Empty the water tank, clean and check the seat, then replace the flapper.

Sluggish flushes

A low water level or the lift chain that connects the flush handle and the flapper valve cause a toilet only to flush partially. Loosen the lift chain to let the flapper settle correctly inside the bowl.

Base leaks

The gasket made of wax between the drain pipeline and the base of the unit should be changed if your toilet leaks when flushed. This procedure requires professional plumbing service.

The toilet is not flushing totally

  • Check if the lift chain has any slack, and make adjustments as needed.
  • Check for a correct water level in the tank.
  • After that, ensure that the flapper is fitted correctly and is the best size and type for your toilet.

The Bowl Empties Slow

Obstructed holes under the bowl’s surface area are the most typical cause of a slow-emptying bowl, also referred to as a poor flush. To clean any clutter, carefully poke each flush hole with a bent piece of wire.

 

If you are still unable to resolve these issues, it will be best to contact a local plumber near me.

Toilet-troubleshooting

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Tips for Repairing Typical Toilet Problems Yourself

A toilet consists of 2 major parts: the bowl unit, which rests on the floor, and the upper tank that holds the water. The bowl is a solid drain piece of the fixture made of porcelain with no moving parts.

 

Few repairs involve the bowl, with a few exceptions. On the other hand, the tank is where 2 important valves exist and the handle for flushing. The tank is where much of the toilet repairs happen.

 

You will be surprised to learn that most toilet problems are fairly simple to fix without the need of an emergency plumber.

Running Toilet Repair

If you’ve tried out a brand-new flapper to fix your running toilet and it still runs, don’t give up hope. Here’s a solution that makes sure it works.

 

Few home nuisances are somewhat as irritating as the sound of a continuously running toilet. If you hear your toilet filling up too often, or if you hear the constant hiss of running water, the flapper could be leaking.

 

The flapper (also known as the “flush valve seal”) is the plug that falls against the drain opening (flush valve drain seat) on the bottom of the tank. It holds water until the next time you flush. When flappers or flush valve seats wear, water leaks out, making the water valve to open and refill the tank.

Replace the Flapper-toilet repair

Step 1: Changing Flapper

First, remove the old flapper and bring it with you to the hardware store or home center to find an identical one.

 

Note: Occasionally, a brand-new flapper does not fix the problem. If you have tried changing the toilet flapper, but the toilet still runs, the flush valve seat is probably rough or pitted.

 

You can change the complete flush toilet flapper valve; however, it’s a big job, and it might require the experience of a plumber near me.

Step 2: Flapper Set with Flush Seat Repairing

If changing the flapper alone failed to work, look for a flapper kit with a flush seat repair.

 

Note: You want to buy a Flush valve repair kit. The kit has a flapper and matching seat that you adhere to the damaged seat with the glue provided.

 

  • First, shut the water to the toilet.
  • Hold the flapper open while flushing to allow the remaining water to drain from the tank.
  • Make use of a sponge to wipe out the water that remains entirely.
  • Follow the included directions to install the new toilet flapper valve seat.
    • Pro tip: If your toilet uses 3.5 gallons or less of water per flush, you will need a kit that includes a plastic cup to change the flapper’s time to stay open. If your toilet uses more than this, remove the timing cup.
      Set up the new flapper.
  • With the flapper down, readjust the chain length, so it’s somewhat relaxed.
  • Turn on the water to check the flush.

 

Note: You might need to fiddle with the chain size to get the flapper functioning correctly.

When finished, remove the excess chain to keep it from getting stuck under the flapper.

Broken Toilet Handle

If shaking the toilet handle does not stop your toilet from running, any of these easy fixes probably will.

 

A toilet handle is a primary device– just a few things can malfunction. The solution is much easier than you think.

loose-toilet-handle

Step 1: Loose Handle

If the handle is loose, tighten up the nut and washer inside the tank with a set of pliers. Do not overtighten the nut; you might strip the threads or, even worse, damage the porcelain tank.

 

If the handle sticks in the down flush position, it might not be installed properly. Loosen up the nut washer, reposition the handle to align with the top of the tank, and re-tighten the nut.

toilet-handle-stripped-threads

Step 2: Stripped Threads

If the nut does not tighten up or keeps coming loose, it’s a sign that the nut threads are stripped. For a quick fix, wrap the threads on the handle screw with “plumber’s tape” or electrical tape. Then slide the washer and nut back on and tighten up the nut.

It is often best to replace the toilet handle if the threads are too damaged or damaged.

toilet-handle-Handle-Arm

Step 3: Handle Arm

  • Check out the handle arm for issues, splits, or breaks.
  • If there are issues, change the entire handle and arm assembly.
    • Pro tip: Remember where your handle mounts on the tank before purchasing a replacement handle. There are numerous kinds: front position left, front position right, front position universal, and side position.
toilet-handle-The-Chain

Step 4: The Chain

Suppose the handle appears to be running correctly, yet the toilet still does not flush. In that case, the chain connecting the handle arm to the flapper could be detached or damaged.

    • Pro Tip: Before working on the chain, empty the tank, shut off the water valve, and pull up on the flapper, letting the water to drain.

 

  • If the chain detaches from the handle arm, reconnect the chain from the flapper into the holes on the handle arm, using the chain hook.
  • Leave a little slack in the chain.
  • If the chain detaches from the flapper, reconnect the chain to the flapper.
  • If the chain or the flapper is defective, change it.

Toilet Buying Tips

Tired of your old, leaking, water hog of a toilet and want to buy a brand-new one? Today you’ll find water-efficient toilets with an array of options. We offer these ideas for the next time you go toilet shopping.

Insulated tank-toilet-installation

Insulated tank

If summer seasons are moist where you live, and you don’t have air conditioning, you’ve probably noticed your toilet “sweating” quite a bit. Condensation forming on the outside of a toilet can drip down, making a water mess and even rotting your floor.

 

Toilets today are made available with insulated tanks to avoid condensation issues. Look into this option if you have “sweating toilet” problems in your house.

Bowl height-toilet-installation

Bowl height

Bowl height is the distance from the floor to the top of the toilet bowl’s rim– the typical height for toilets is 14 to 15 inches. Yet today, you’ll find toilets 16 to 18 inches high, commonly called “comfort level” or “ADA height” or something similar.

 

The additional heights available make getting on and off the toilet much more accessible and comfortable for many people, especially aging individuals. Toilets designed for kid heights of 10 to 14 inches are also available.

One-piece vs. two-piece-toilet-installation

One-piece vs. two-piece

A two-piece toilet (a separate tank and bowl) is the most common design in houses. Yet one-piece designs are offered. Two-piece toilets are generally less expensive; one-piece toilets typically have shorter storage tanks and are much easier to clean.

 

One-piece toilets are the favorite of many property owners for their smooth, sleek look.

Cost-toilet-installation

Price

When it pertains to toilets, expensive does not immediately suggest better efficiency. Many of the best models we have tested were relatively affordable and performed well. In comparison, more expensive ones were only marginal efficient.

Color

Style is fickle. Stick to a white or a beige color toilet to avoid being stuck to a color you’ll resent a few years later on.

Flush-handle location-toilet-installation

Flush-handle location

If you have a large bathroom and have plenty of room above or beside your toilet, this perhaps isn’t all that essential. Make sure to pick a toilet with a top handle or one opposite the wall if the room is limited.

 

Buying a proper toilet is very important, so spare yourself a return trip to the store and pay close attention.

Rough-in-toilet-installation

Rough-in

“Rough-in” measurement is the distance between the flange screws that secure the toilet bowl to the floor and the wall surface behind the toilet. Twelve-inch “rough-ins” are the most common; nonetheless, in some older properties, you might have 10-in. or 14-in. “rough-ins.”

 

Pro Tip: Ensure to measure your “rough-in” and account for the thickness of your baseboard, paneling, or floor tile before you go toilet shopping.

Bowl shape

Many toilets marketed today have either round-front bowls or elongated-front bowls. Round-front bowls are great if the area is snug. Elongated bowls have a more extended rim– as much as 2 in. longer– and require more room.

 

On the plus side, elongated bowls are typically much comfier for adult use and help boost health and wellness. Review vendor websites for bowl measurements, and measure your space before picking the bowl shape.

Footprint-toilet-installation

Footprint

If you install a brand-new toilet with a smaller sized tank, you might need to repaint the part of the wall surface covered by the old toilet tank.

 

If your old toilet had a large footprint (the base covers a large floor area), you might need to patch and fix the floor part surrounded by the old toilet. You might additionally need to change the whole floor before installing a brand-new toilet with a smaller sized footprint.

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