Toilet Plumbers Near Me Pennsylvania

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Toilet Repair Services Near Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Spring Garden, Hawthorne, Society Hill, Francisville, University City, Schuylkill, Yorktown, Mantua, Ludlow, Fairmount

When things go wrong with your home toilet, it could be among the most typical– and disturbing– plumbing problems you might experience in your home. Whether it is overflowing or running continuously, a toilet repair is an problem you can not put aside.

It would be best if you always try and keep them in good working order as they are among the most significant fixtures in a plumbing system. We do not pay them much attention until something goes wrong and they stop working.

The feared clogged-up toilet is among property owners’ most typical residential challenges. Many will try to fix the issue, only to find that the fix did not work or that the issue reappeared.

When the issue requires more than just a plunger service, it’s best to call a local plumber near me for all toilet repair or installation needs. With years of experience servicing Philadelphia County, Pennsylvania locations, our local plumbing qualified team can handle toilet repair quickly and effectively, and at a reasonable cost.

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Most Common Problems with Toilets in Homes

Plenty of toilet repairs, installations, and services are best left for the pros to handle. However, not all services need emergency plumbing services.

Allow us to go through a few of the standard problems dealt with by customers that have called us for suggestions on how to fix them:

Groaning noises:

If you hear groaning sounds from a toilet, it could be due to a rise in water pressure, which makes a valve shudder or shake.

Random or consistent flushing:

Either of these 2 problems will potentially cause the unit to flush and start filling on its own:

the refill tube is too long, or
a leaking flapper

This flushing at random leads to water damage and waste, leading to a higher monthly water service bill.

Compound flushing:

Perhaps you only flush once; however, the toilet flushes two times or even three times. A high water level is typically the source of this issue. Changing the float control within the tank will usually fix this issue.

Water leaking into the bowl, or “Phantom Flushes”:

A sluggish leakage from the tank into the bowl is the source of the issue here. A malfunctioning flapper or flapper seat is undoubtedly to blame.

Replacing a worn or damaged flapper is the best solution to avoid plumbing issues. Empty the water tank, clean and check the seat, then change the flapper.

Sluggish flushes:

A low water level or the lift chain that connects the flush handle and the flapper valve causes a toilet only to flush partially. Loosen the lift chain to let the flapper settle down properly inside the bowl.

Base leakages:

The gasket made of wax between the drain pipeline at the base of the unit should be replaced if it leaks when flushed. This process requires a skilled plumbing service.

Not flushing completely:

Check if the lift chain has any slack, and make adjustments as needed.
Check for a correct water level in the tank.
After that, ensure that the flapper is fitted correctly and is the best size and type for the unit.

The Bowl Empties Slow:

Obstructed holes under the bowl’s surface area are the most typical cause of a slow-emptying bowl, also referred to as a bad flush. To clean out any clutter, carefully poke each flush opening with a bent piece of wire.

If you are still unable to resolve these issues, it will be best to contact a local plumber near me.

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Pro Plumbing Service Tips for Fixing Common Toilet Problem Yourself

A toilet consists of 2 major parts: the bowl unit, which rests on the flooring, and the upper tank which holds the water. The bowl is a solid drain piece of the fixture made of porcelain with no moving parts.

Few repairs involve the bowl, with only a few exceptions. On the other hand, the tank is where 2 important valves exist and the handle for flushing. The tank is where most of the toilet repairs happen.

You will be surprised to learn that most issues are reasonably easy to fix without the need to call an emergency plumber.

Running Toilet Repair Service:

If you’ve tried a new flapper for a running toilet and it still runs, do not give up hope. Here’s a solution that makes sure it works.

Few home nuisances are quite as annoying as the noise of continuously running water. If you hear filling up too often, or if you hear the consistent hiss of running water, the flapper in the unit might be leaking.

The flapper (also known as the “flush valve seal”) is the plug that falls against the drain opening (flush valve drain seat) on the bottom of the tank. It holds water until the next time you flush. When flappers or flush valve seats wear, water drips out, making the valve to open and refill the tank.

Step 1: Changing Flapper:

First, remove the old flapper and bring it with you to the hardware store or home center to find a similar one.

Note: Occasionally, a new flapper does not fix the issue. If you have tried changing the flapper, but it still runs, the flush valve seat is possibly rough or pitted.

You can change the complete flush flapper valve; however, it is not an easy job, and it may need the experience of a plumber near Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.

Step 2: Flapper Set with Flush Seat Repairing:

If changing the flapper alone failed to work, search for a flapper set with a flush seat repair.

Note: You want to purchase a Flush valve repair set. The set has a flapper and matching seat that you stick to the damaged seat with the glue supplied.

First, close the water to the toilet.
Hold the flapper open while flushing to enable the remaining water to drain from the tank.
Use a sponge to wipe out the water that remains entirely.
Follow the included instructions to set up the brand-new flapper valve seat.
- Pro tip: If the unit uses 3.5 gallons or less of water per flush, you will need a set that includes a plastic cup to change the flapper’s time to stay open. If your unit utilizes more than this, get rid of the timing cup.
  Install the brand-new flapper.
With the flapper down, readjust the chain length, so it’s somewhat relaxed.
Turn on the water to test the flush.

Note: You may need to fiddle with the chain length-size to get the flapper working correctly.

When finished, cut off the excess chain to keep it from getting stuck under the flapper.

Toilet Repair Services: Broken Handle

If wiggling the handle does not stop your toilet from running, any of these simple repairs possibly will.

The handle is a primary device– just a few things can malfunction and need to be repaired. The solution is easier than you think.

Step 1: Loose Handle:

If the handle is loose, the installation of a new one is fairly easy. Tighten up the nut and washer inside the tank with a pair of pliers without over-tighten it; you might strip the threads or, even worse, damage the porcelain tank.

If the handle sticks in the down flush position, it may not be mounted correctly. Loosen the nut washer, reposition the handle to align with the top side of the tank, and re-tighten the nut.

Step 2: Stripped Threads:

If the nut does not tighten up or keeps coming loose, it’s a sign that the nut threads are stripped. For a quick fix, cover the threads on the handle screw with “plumber’s tape” or electrical tape.

Then, move the washer and nut back on and tighten up the nut. It is often best to replace the handle with a new one if the threads are too damaged or damaged.

Step 3: Handle Arm:

Look into the handle arm for problems, splits, or breaks.
If there are problems, change the complete handle and the arm assembly.
- Pro tip: Remember where your handle mounts on the tank before buying a replacement handle. There are numerous kinds: front mount left, front mount right, front mount universal, and side mount.

Step 4: The Chain:

Suppose the handle appears to be running correctly, yet the toilet still does not flush. In that case, the chain connecting the handle arm to the flapper could be detached or damaged.

- Pro Tip: Before working on the chain, empty the tank, shut off the water valve, and pull up the flapper, allowing the water to drain.

If the chain detaches from the handle arm, reconnect the chain from the flapper into the holes on the handle arm, using the chain hook.
Leave a little slack in the chain.
If the chain detaches from the flapper, reconnect the chain to the flapper.
If the chain or the flapper is defective, change it.

Buying Tips for Toilets

Tired of your old, dripping, water hog of a toilet and want to buy a new one? A toilet replacement is not a major job and today you’ll find water-efficient units with an array of options. Use the following ideas for the next time you go shopping for a new unit.

Insulated tank:

If summer times are moist where you live, and you do not have A/C, you’ve possibly spotted “sweating moisture” quite a bit on the side of the unit. Condensation forming on the outside of a toilet can drip down, making a water mess and even rotting your flooring.

Today, most toilets are made available with insulated storage tanks to avoid condensation problems. Consider this option if you have “sweating” issues.

Bowl height:

Bowl height is the distance from the flooring to the top of the bowl’s edge– the typical height is 14 to 15 inches. Yet today, you’ll find units 16 to 18 inches high, commonly called “comfort level” “ADA height” or something similar.

The added heights offered make getting on and off much more accessible and comfortable for many people, especially aging people. Designs for kids with heights of 10 to 14 inches are also available.

One-piece vs. two-piece:

A two-piece (a separate tank and bowl) is the most typical style in homes. Yet one-piece styles are offered. Two-piece styles are usually less expensive; one-piece styles often have shorter tank and are much easier to clean.

One-piece styles are the favorite of many property owners because of their smooth, streamlined look.

Price:

When it pertains to toilets, expensive does not instantly suggest better efficiency. Several of the best models we have tested were reasonably affordable and performed well. In comparison, costlier ones were only marginally efficient.

Color:

Style is fickle. Stick to a white or beige color style to avoid being stuck to a color you’ll resent a few years later on.

Flush-handle location:

If you have a large bathroom and have plenty of space above or beside your toilet, this perhaps isn’t all that crucial. Make sure to choose a style with a top handle or one opposite the wall if the space is limited.

Purchasing a proper style is very important, to save yourself a return trip to the store, so pay close attention when choosing style options.

Rough-in:

The “rough-in” measurement is the distance between the flange screws that secures the toilet bowl to the flooring and the wall surface behind it. A 12-inch “rough-in” is the most typical measurement; nevertheless, in some older houses, you might have a 10-inch or even a 14-inch “rough-in.”

Tip: Make sure to measure your “rough-in” and always account for the thickness of your baseboard, paneling, or tile backing before purchasing the unit.

Bowl shape:

A lot of unit styles marketed today have either round-front bowls or elongated-front bowls.

Round-front bowls are great if the area is tight.
Elongated bowls have a more extended edge– as much as two-inch longer– and need more space.

On the plus side, elongated bowls are usually much more comfortable for adult use which helps increase health and wellness. Evaluate your supplier’s websites for bowl measurements, and measure your space before picking the bowl shape.

Footprint:

If you install a new toilet with a smaller sized tank, you may need to paint the part of the wall surface area covered by the old tank.

The same will apply if the old unit style had a large footprint on the floor, you might need to patch and repair the flooring part surrounded by the footprint of the old unit. You may also need to change the entire flooring before installing a new unit.